This means that our molecule is part water- and part oil-loving, so it not only works as a thickener but also as an emulsion stabilizer. Regarding the skin-brightening properties of pure vitamin C, this is another magic property AP does not have, or at least there is no data, not even in-vitro, about it. Ingredients include algae, antioxidants and a good amount of skin-replenishing, skin-restoring, and hydrating ingredients. Waxy, white, solid stuff that helps water and oil to mix together and leaves the skin feeling soft and smooth. Leslie Bauman notes in Cosmetic Dermatology that one application of sunflower oil significantly speeds up the recovery of the skin barrier within an hour and sustains the results 5 hours after using it. Normal (well kind of - it's purified and deionized) water. After 8 weeks there was a significant reduction of wrinkle depth and height and skin roughness has also improved greatly. Super common little helper ingredient that helps products to remain nice and stable for a longer time. GENIUS Collagen Calming Relief is a concentrated but ultra-gentle restorative treatment that is specifically formulated to treat mild skin discomfort. Second, jojoba oil is the most similar to human sebum (both being wax esters), and the two are completely miscible. Infused with our exclusive … A fatty acid that can be found naturally in the skin. It is usually used as a helper ingredient to adjust the pH of the formula. Second, a study that examined the skin absorption of vitamin C found that ascorbyl palmitate did not increase the skin levels of AA. An oil soluble vitamin C derivative that has mixed data about its effectiveness. Chemically speaking, it is ethoxylated Cetearyl alcohol, meaning that some ethylene oxide is added to the fatty alcohol to increase the water-soluble part in the molecule. Great natural moisturizer and skin-identical ingredient that plays an important role in skin hydration and general skin health. Truth be told, there are many great plant oils and sunflower oil is definitely one of them. A real oldie but a goodie. In other words, it's a superb moisturizer that makes your skin nice and smooth, without being heavy or greasy. Also, it's an effective deodorant and a medium spreading emollient. It also occurs naturally in our body and is used as a food additive. 10 day results, always. A common multi-tasker fatty acid that works as an emollient, thickener and emulsion stabilizer. It also forms a protective barrier on the skin and fills in fine lines. T&Cs apply. It's known and grown for jojoba oil, the golden yellow liquid coming from the seeds (about 50% of the weight of the seeds will be oil). It’s a handy multi-tasking ingredient that gives the skin a nice, soft feel. With a gentle but effective formula, the Algenist Genius Collagen Calming Relief works hard to tackle the redness and flakiness common with rough, dry skin. It's used as an emulsion stabilizer, solvent and a broad spectrum antimicrobial. This proprietary Algenist ingredient is rich in nutrients like oleic acid, phytosterols, and tocopherols. Yes, it’s soap. A fatty acid that can be found naturally in the skin. Fatty alcohols have a long oil-soluble (and thus emollient) tail part that makes them absolutely non-drying and non-irritating and are totally ok for the skin. It’s safe and gentle, but even more importantly, it’s not a feared-by-everyone-mostly-without-scientific-reason paraben. Key Ingredients 0 selected. Our intro did get pretty big after all (sorry for that), so let's get to the point finally: sunflower oil - similar to other plant oils - is a great emollient that makes the skin smooth and nice and helps to keep it hydrated. I was very excited to use the new and expensive Algenist Genius Liquid Collagen Serum. 4 /5 1 review. Soothing, hydrating, restorative with plant collagen. An anti-irritant and anti-itch molecule that copies the active ingredient (Avenanthramides) in the well-known soothing plant, oat. It’s a real oldie: expressed directly from the seeds, the oil is used not for hundreds but thousands of years. Probably the most common silicone of all. Not really that good. We do a Best of INCIDecoder email once a month with the most interesting products and ingredients we bump into. It's readily biodegradable. 10 day results, always. It’s pretty much the current IT-preservative. Chemically speaking, it is the attachment of a glycerin molecule to the fatty acid called stearic acid. It’s an ingredient whose safety hasn’t been questioned so far by anyone (at least not that we know about). :) You are almost done: please check your mailbox to confirm your email! They are good friends because ethylhexylglycerin can boost the effectiveness of phenoxyethanol (and other preservatives) and as an added bonus it feels nice on the skin too. Unless you live under a rock you must have heard about shea butter. It is a liquid-gel formula with micro-beads suspended throughout. The oil coming from the pulp of one of the most nutritious fruits in the world, the avocado. A really multi-functional helper ingredient that can do several things in a skincare product: it can bring a soft and pleasant feel to the formula, it can act as a humectant and emollient, it can be a solvent for some other ingredients (for example it can help to stabilize perfumes in watery products) and it can also help to disperse pigments more evenly in makeup products. It's also loaded with fatty acids (mostly linoleic (50-74%)  and oleic (14-35%)). Keep reading Until recently, collagen in skincare was either (1) animal-derived -- mostly from cows (bovine), fish (marine) and pigs (porcine) – or (2) pro-collagen ingredients – which isn’t actually collagen at all, rather peptides or amino acids. Combined with other super-natural ingredients, this miraculous discovery powers Algenist’s award … The extract coming from the popular garden plant Calendula or Marigold. Why the puffer coat is a winter-styling essential, Suitable for all skin types, including sensitive, Free from BHA, mineral oils, parabens, paraffins, phthalates, SLS and SLES, Gently massage into skin, concentrating on rough, dry, tight or red skin. According to manufacturer info, it's used  for many centuries for its exceptional healing powers and is particularly remarkable in the treatment of wounds. So citric acid is an exfoliant, that can - just like other AHAs - gently lift off the dead skin cells of your skin and make it more smooth and fresh. Works in synergy with Vitamin C. Amino acids are important natural moisturizing factors (NMFs), that can be found naturally in the skin where they help the epidermis (upper layer of the skin) to stay nice and hydrated. A great skin soother and moisturizer, and it even shows promising anti-aging benefits. According to manufacturer info, it's also a moisturizer and helps to make the product feel great on the skin. It was already used by ancient Egyptians to help oil and fat magically turn into something else. It comes from the seeds of African Shea or Karite Trees and used as a magic moisturizer and emollient. Use it every morning and night for a healthier-looking complexion. There are different grades depending on the molecular weight ranging from very light, volatile, non-residue leaving ones to more substantial, slight residue leaving ones.Apart from leaving the skin soft and smooth (emollient), it'. Beautiful Product. The only good thing we can write about Ascorbyl Palmitate is that there is an in-vitro (made in the lab, not on real people) study showing that it might be able to boost collagen production. It helps to soften scars and increase their elasticity. It's also a solvent and can boost the effectiveness of preservatives. A common multi-tasker fatty acid. Like crazy stable. It's loaded with the nourishing and moisturizing fatty acid, oleic (70%) and contains some others including palmitic (10%) and linoleic acid (8%). As for skincare, it makes the skin silky smooth, creates a subtle gloss and forms a protective barrier (aka occlusive). There are different grades depending on the molecular weight ranging from very light, volatile, non-residue leaving ones to more substantial, slight residue leaving ones. One of the active parts of Chamomile that is used in skincare as a nice anti-inflammatory and soothing ingredient. It does so by neutralizing the metal ions in the formula (that usually get into there from water) that would otherwise cause some not so nice changes. Similar to other glycols, it's a helper ingredient used as a solvent, or to thin out thick formulas and make them more nicely spreadable. It’s a great pick for creating a nice feeling product. If you have some pure jojoba oil at home, you should be fine using it for years. The unsaturated (with double bonds) and hence less stable version of Squalane is Squalene, you can read about it here >>. Enter FIRST10 at checkout for 10% off your first order. An AHA that comes from citrus fruits. Thanks. To offer you a better experience, this site uses profiling cookies, even from third parties. Even if it can be converted, the palmitate part of the molecule is more than the half of it, so the efficacy will not be good and we have never seen a serum that contains a decent (and proudly disclosed) amount of AP. For all skin types including skin showing signs of sensitivity, this luxurious cream provides a cushioned layer on the skin that immediately comforts dryness, tightness and the look of redness associated with rough, dry skin. Overall, Ascorbyl Palmitate is our least favorite vitamin C derivative. Sunflower does not need a big intro as you probably use it in the kitchen as cooking oil, or you munch on the seeds as a healthy snack or you adore its big, beautiful yellow flower during the summer - or you do all of these and probably even more. 10 day results, always. The result is that the mainly oil soluble, emollient fatty alcohol is converted to an emulsifier molecule that keeps oil and water mixed in creams. Other words, it is excellent for acne-prone skin to soften scars and their. ) ) can do quite many things look at more promising derivatives here the name of emulsifiers... Something else is an AHA for a limited time 60ml £ 68.00 see there also the current,! 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